The upgrades for the letters were usually crossover changes. The Articles link will give you a list of speaker models Magnepan made. MUG: Check out the links to News and Tweaks for info about the speakers, repairs, upgrades, stands and such. Is any of that what you were hoping to get?
PIONEER D23 CROSSOVER CONNECTION HOW TO
That is how to contact them, call, limited email. MUG is linked on the asylum planar page along with Magnepan's site where you find their phone number. The Magnepan Users Group and planar speaker forum at the asylum has a lot of info. I don't know of a good repair corrosion other the a rewrite but maybe a conductive glue would work The voc in the acrylic will work on the green and the acrylic will coat the wire and Mylar. Green can be addressed by spraying a coating of Krylon clear acrylic. Some have installed high quality holders.Ĩ) after you place in position, walk to and from the speakers in the middle and try to locate the listening position where you hear a bass peak and not a bass null.ĩ) you can also adjust the distance to the wall behind the speakers to help with the sound. Might be able to see a few inches of the panel.ħ) the fuse holder hurts the sound. Just so you know if you like what you have.Ħ) you can pull the connection plate and get a peek inside. They sell a poly double knit or something, now.
I don't know how to work with the thing slats on the front of the speaker.ĥ) the off white and black standard grille cloth is no longer supplied by Magnepan. The is probably a staple at each top side holding the fabric corner. Pry with a sharp screwdriver and pull out with a pair of pliers. A row across the bottom a fold of the sock and another row of staples. Original is a flat plastic cap of some kind, poly-somethingĤ) the hardest part of doing any internal repair is removing the sox and that isn't hard. Corrosion and lifting, banana peel are reasons to think about going in sooner than later.ģ) there is a good cap in there, but you can use a better one but it might not fit. Look or feel the upper and lower ends of the wires for any lifting from the Mylar. Or just good looking clean glued down wires. You may see white spots of aluminum oxide on the wire, an indication of corrosion or a green hue to the glue. I use about 50 tube watts and that is great since it sounds so much better than the 200 watt sand amp I have.Ģ) you can use a strong flashlight to try to get a peek inside. Your 1960s? Monster power of 15 watts will do just fine for some listening levels. One thing I'd like to do is replace the crossover cap(s), but I don't know if that is possible without removing the sock, and I'm guessing a good quality film cap would do fine, although I don't know the value, although I've seen a schematic.ġ) you have way more than flea power as that is a moniker of the SET amps in the under 5 watt power class. (is it possible to fiox the problem before the problem crops up?
I've tried to inspect the wiring inside, but I can't get a good look, unless I remove the socks apparently. Both speakers are working fine, bass and highs are there, so I don't have a problem (yet) Yes, Maggies are supposed to have solid state monster amps, but they sure sound good to me with my flea power amps.įirst of all, I've done some research, and I see a lot of posts in various places about broken/corroded wiring.
Just some background, I am running all tube amplification, culminating in a pair of Quad II monoblocks. (I've always had box-speakers until now.) My first experience with Planars, and I'm impressed. I just bought a pair of MG-II-b's for $50 in the orginal box.
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